I Get Around

I haven't driven a car since July 9th.  And when I last drove on July 9th, I wasn't even aware that it was my last time behind the wheel for a long while.  I wish I had thought about it more because I probably would have driven just a little bit faster, turned the radio up a little bit louder, maybe shut off the air and just roll down the windows.  I would have gone out of my way to drive past somewhere that really mattered, like maybe my old high school, or the church where I got married, or the apartment that we lived in as newlyweds.  But I didn't. 

I knew I wouldn't have a car in Hong Kong.  But I also knew that this city has a fabulous transportation system and it does!  It really, really does!  So here's how I've been getting around the island of Hong Kong.

Taxis


This is a Hong Kong taxi.  When we first arrived, I was exclusively a taxi girl.  It's just easy to get it, tell them where I'm going, and then sit back and play Words With Friends on my phone until I arrive.  And I will admit, there is something about hailing a cab that makes you feel very cosmopolitan chic.  Like playing make believe or something.

I've had some really great taxi drivers.  One named Simon, picked me up two days in a row.  I recognized him by the row of cute little trinkets on his dashboard, lucky cat figurines and plastic cars and air fresheners and such.  He remembered me too, because halfway through the fare he said "didn't I drive you yesterday?".  He went on to tell me all about his brother, who went to medical school back in the States and how he hoped to visit him there one day.  "Cost lot of money," he told me wistfully about his wish to travel.

Another day I hopped in a cab with some ladies I had lunch with and one named Annie thanked the driver saying " Mh goi".  He got a kick out of her beginners Cantonese and started giving us a mini lesson explaining that Mh goi was appropriate for his services, but if we are ever given a gift, the response of thanks would be "do jeh".   "Mh goi for taxi ride, but someone give you money, do jeh you tell them," he explained to us. 

Some drivers play the radio.  Others prefer dead silence.  Some belch loudly while driving, totally unfazed that there is a woman sitting a few feet behind them.  I'm always tickled by those playing American music in their cabs.  As I speed through the streets of Central on my way to Repulse Bay, who would think I'm listening to the Gloria Gaynor, I Will Survive or Lady Gaga, Poker Face?  Some are attached to their Bluetooth and I have to listen to their conversation as we drive.  Not that I understand one single thing they are saying.  Most times it just sounds like the driver is spewing angry words over the phone.... only to have it punctuated by quick laughter.  I don't know that I'll ever grow accustomed to the harsh sound of Cantonese.

A few weeks ago I had a taxi pick me up at home, then drive to Central plaza in Wan Chai to pick up Gene from work, then on to Central where we were meeting friends for drinks and dinner.  Traffic was horrendous and we spent a great deal of time in gridlock.  Finally, we swung into the circular driveway of Gene's building.  My eyes locked with my husbands across the way as he slowly walked towards the taxi.  I put my hand up in an excited wave, so happy to see him, so happy for some time together, so happy for the arrival of the weekend.... only to have my irritated cab driver lay one the horn as if to say 'get your butt moving you American a-hole!  I ain't got all day!'. 

The kids love to take a taxi.  Tripp can hail one all on his own.  In fact, there are times when I have had to shoo a driver away because my son has hailed a cab while my back was turned.  When we climb into the backseat, Tripp tells the driver "129 Repulse Bay, The Wil Wee".  (Let me translate, that's 129 Repulse Bay, The Lily).  The kids are so fascinated by the little red cars that we had to buy our very own Hong Kong taxi .  Tripp loves it so much, he took it in for show and tell at school.  He told the class, "It is a taxi.  It is red." Then he showed them the little taxi sign on top and spelled it for them, "T-A-X-I". 

Buses

Some people swear by the bus system, but I'm not fully comfortable with them yet. Mostly it's because I'm not familiar with all the stops. I've taken the bus home, because I know what that bus stop looks like; I know when to ring the bell to get off.   But if I'm going to a new location I'm always uneasy and need to give myself loads of time. Quite often I'll study the routes on their website and write down the names and the number of the stops just so I can track where I am and when I need to get off. 

I should not even admit this, but on my first attempt to ride the bus on my own, I hopped in at Repulse Bay, rode into Central and all the way back to Repulse Bay... without ever getting to where I wanted to go!  I got on the double-decker and lost all sense of direction and location.  The bus came to a final halt at the bus station, and, not really knowing where I was, I just got off and got on the next bus, ending up right back in Repulse Bay where I started.   No worries though!  Once I arrive back on the south side of the island,  I got off the bus, hailed myself a taxi and went on my merry way.

So, I'm not super fond of the big buses, but I do love....

Mini Buses

Yep, I love me a mini bus.  These little bus-like, vans only seat 16 people, but there's a slew of them.  Many a time I've sauntered down the driveway of The Lily to see the minibus drive on by.  But within minutes, sometimes a literal minute, here comes another.  The driver keeps a constant count of how many open seats he has.  If the mini bus is full, they hang a little "full" sign in the front window or some of them have light up signs indicating they are full. 

Forget the amusement park roller coaster.  If you need a fun ride, just hop on a mini bus!  You wave down the driver to stop and they don't just come to a casual slow stop.  Half the time I think they are about to pass me by.  Then the driver jams on the brakes and comes to a screeching halt. Now hurry up and find a seat, cause he's on that gas and on the move again, bumping along the narrow roads, rounding corners at a speed teetering on the edge of unsafe.  Some of the buses have bells to ring when you want to get off, but many do not.  So how do you get the driver to stop?  You yell "next stop please" and don't be shy, cause he's got to hear you over the roar of his engine.  Half the time, the door is flung open before the bus is fully stopped and you just kind of stumble out.  Not a mode of transportation for those who like to maintain a graceful appearance.  But it's fast, it's efficient and it's dirt cheap.  A taxi ride from my house to the grocery store cost $20 HK.  A mini bus ride, only $4.50 HK.  Quite the bargain.

MTR/Subway


I took a little class on using public transportation, hoping to get a good explanation of Hong Kong's subway system.  But I met so many wonderful woman in that class, that I ended up socializing lots and learn little.  The first time Gene and I took the subway together, we uttered many a 4-letter word, but in the end, we got where we were going.  A few days later, I tried to ride the train by myself.  This time, I concentrated less on trying to look as if I knew what I was doing, and really figure out what I was doing.  The result, I love the MTR and I get it.  I actually get it. 

The MTR system really is wonderfully thought out.  And it's showroom clean.  There are rules forbidding eating and drinking on the trains so you're not going to find old chewing gum stuck to the floor or candy wrappers jammed behind the seats. Just like buses have different routes, so do the trains, so that means you might just have to transfer trains to get to your final destination.  But throughout the MTR stations there are maps with the color coded different lines that are pretty easy to decipher.  When you get off the train, there are usually several different exits, but each exit has a sign that lists some of the larger streets, buildings, and major destinations you'll find above ground.  Easy peasey!

But there is one drawback to the subway system.  It doesn't run out to Repulse Bay or really anywhere nearby.  Sure I can get to 101 different places once I get on the MTR, but the challenge is getting to the MTR.  Here's my solution...

The Lily Shuttle Bus

As I see it, one of the bonuses to living at The Lily is the free shuttle buses that run into town on a regular basis.  All day long, the shuttle hauls residents into and out of Wan Chai; residents who include my hubby, who takes the shuttle to and from work every day.  In the morning, the buses run every 20 or 30 minutes to get commuters to work on time, but then later in the day it reverts to an hourly run.  But it runs all the way until midnight, seven days a week. 

So, the trick is to hop the free Lily bus to Wan Chai, get off there, walk the short two blocks to the Wan Chai station, duck underground and let your journey begin!  Neat trick, yes, but with this system timing is everything.  It's easy to use this combo to go into town, but harder coming back.  More then once I've finished up with errands or shopping or a haircut and realized that I'm just not going to make it back in time to catch the free shuttle home.  But, if you remember what I penned up above, there are always taxis, and buses and mini buses that will get you where you are going.  And if you're lucky maybe you'll hitch a ride from....

Friends with Cars

Before we got to Hong Kong, I was kind of under the impression ex-pats just didn't drive, that everyone would be like us relying on public transportation to get us here, there and everywhere.  But I quickly found this is not the case.  Many ex-pats do actually have cars, and nice cars at that, and some even have drivers! 

When we were first offered rides home from birthday parties or school events, I initially declined them saying, "oh no, no, we'll just grab a taxi".  Then I realized how stupid I was.  They wouldn't offer if it was a true inconvenience and I've found that the ex-pats here, they're just like that.  There is this real awareness of a different kind of life we're all living and people want to help when they can.  I realized how silly it was not to accept a free ride, so now when offered, I jump on it.  And I've ridden in some sweet rides!  My favorite was the powder blue Audi convertible and for once, I didn't care about the wind messing my hair. 

So there you have it.  That's how I get around... from town to town... I get around, round, round, round, I get around.